The Roofing Doctor

How to Replace a shingle Roof Part 1 Of 3
How To Replace A Shingle Roof Part Two
How To Replace A Shingle Roof Part Three
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The Ins and Outs of Roofing
Coal Tar Products
How to Become a Roofer
 
 
How to Replace a shingle roof Part 2 Of 3
  Covering The Roof With Felt.

Some Hazards To keep In Mind

Besides the obvious risk of falling off the roof, there are a number of dangers in roofing work: Objects can fall off the roof and injure people below. Warn others of the work overhead, and keep children away from the work area. Use caution when carrying bundles of shingles up ladders. If the shingle bundles are too heavy, divide the bundle in half (which is the only way I'll carry these extra-heavy shingles up a ladder). There's no need to play He-Man and fall off a ladder, or rip the muscles in your back. Keep one hand free when climbing up and down the ladder. An even better way to haul tools and materials is to place them in a bucket and use a rope to lift the bucket. Some lumber yards will deliver the shingles to the roof top for an extra charge. This is only practical if the delivery can be timed to the point where the old roof is removed and the tar-paper laid down.


After the shingles have been torn off, there are several steps commonly taken to "dry-in" a roof. New drip-edge is usually installed, new flashing may be installed around roof penetrations, and roofing felt (also known as tar paper) is installed to prevent leaks while the shingles are installed.

Installing The Drip Edge: 
Step-1 Picture-1
After the roof surface has been completely cleaned of debris and all loose boards have been fastened down, you can install the drip edge (also called "edge iron") along the eave. you can  nail the drip edge with 1-1/4" galvanized roofing nails.

Step-2 Picture-2
At the corner, the drip edge along the rake (the sloping edge) is laid over top of the eave's drip edge and nailed.

Step-3 Picture-3
Butt joints are made by overlapping the pieces a small amount and forcing them together. The aluminum bends easily.

Step-4 Picture-4
After you are finished installing the drip edge you will need to install the ice and water shield. This 3-foot-wide strip is extremely sticky... once applied you can forget about peeling it off. Here you carefully ad herring the edge of the new roll. Then he pulled the release paper from the back and pressed the sheet in place.
Depending on your location the local building codes now require an approved ice and water shield be installed up to a point three feet in from the outer wall. This is intended to prevent roof leakage from the inevitable ice dams that form when the snow melts in late winter.This product is truly amazing. It literally seals around all nails that penetrate it, forming a water-tight barrier. It's expensive, around $60 a square, but far cheaper than the damage from a leaky roof. I once saw a large hotel building (that had a history of terrible ice dams and leaks) that was completely covered in this product before it was re-shingled. They must have used two hundred rolls of ice and water shield. Whew! (I'll bet they got a volume discount.)

How to do your Hole Patching:
Step-5 Picture-5 & 6

The larger knot holes in the roof were covered with aluminum flashing, which was stapled in place with a hammer taker. 

Smaller holes like these, just big enough to stick your thumb through, were left uncovered.

Step-7 Picture-7 & 8
Installing the 15 # Felt:
You roll out the tar paper and secur it with staples. The hammer tackier (right) is by far the fastest tool for this purpose, although an electric staple gun also works well.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Step-9 Picture-9
Over the plumbing vent flashing we slipped a scrap of felt, to be removed when the shingles are installed.
 
Step-10 Picture-10
The rows of felt are overlapped by a few inches. It only took about 10 minutes to cover this side of the roof.

Step-11 Picture-11
At the chimney, lay a small piece of felt over the upper edge of the flashing.

Cutting the Hole for the Ridge Vent:
Step-12 Picture-12
To allow the hot attic air to escape through the ridge vent you plan to install, you cut a thin strip of roof sheathing from each side of the peak.you simply set the circular saw blade to exactly the depth of the roof sheathing planks, and followed the lines you snapped.

Step-13 Picture-13
you make the hole a few inches shorter than the total length of ridge vent.

Step-14 Picture-14
The hole runs almost the entire length of the roof.

Step-15 Picture-15 & 16
The tar-papered roof is a logical stopping point for the day. This layer of felt is an adequate temporary roof surface that will stand up to moderate winds if stapled securely at the edges. Note how we placed bundles of shingles on the roof, in preparation for the next day's work. How To Replace A Shingle Roof Part Three

 

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