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Installing Asphalt Roof Shingles
Part-3 |
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After roof deck preparations have been made,
Your starter strip is installed and shingles are
laid rapidly. Details include shingling around pipes
and installing ridge vent.
The main drawback of pneumatic roof shingle nailing is
their inconsistency in nail depth. Sometimes the
heads stick up a little and sometimes the heads tear
into the shingle. Another frequent problem is that
nails sometimes enter the roof at an angle, which
makes the head stick up. Protruding nail heads can
tear the shingle above them, and it stands to reason
that they don't hold as well as properly nailed
shingles. In my opinion, hand driving roofing nails
gives a superior level of quality... it just takes
much longer, perhaps two or three times as long.
Tools you will need.
Pneumatic Roofing Nail
Guns, Air Compressor,
Utility Knives, Tin Snips,
Tape Measure,
Hammer
Caulk Gun, I would
recommend drinking water.
Materials you will need
Architectural
Shingles, Roofing Nails,
Roofing Tar, Ridge Vent,
Starter Strip
Use roof jacks on steep roofs such as 6:12 pitch
or greater.
How To Install A Roof Jack |
       
Step-1 Picture-1
The first thing you install is the starter strip,
which is just a backing for the first visible row of
shingles (it prevents water from getting through to
the roof at the gaps between shingles, and at the
notches between tabs).
you
can use
pre-cut starter strips, which is new. In the past I have always just trimmed
the tabs off a whole shingle. These pre-cut ones
save a few bucks when the shingles being installed
are higher priced.
Step-2 Picture-2
To
began start installing shingles from the lower
corner, working to the right and also working
uphill.
Step-3 Picture-3
Very
important the shingles must be
arranged so the ends and the tab notches do not lie
directly above gaps in the shingle below. If the
gaps lined up, water could get directly onto the
roof sheathing and then seep in through a nail hole.Note how the shingle on the right (not yet nailed
down) is a little longer than the first shingle in
the row on the left (which has been nailed down).
Step-4 Picture-4
In order to accomplish this miss-matching of gaps,
you will need to cut progressively larger amounts from the
first shingle
in each row as you work up the
slope. One row would have nothing cut, the next row
would have 6" cut off, then 12" cut off, and so on.
The photo shows the scraps cut off from the first
shingles in a progression of rows.
Step-5 Picture-5
Note how the first full shingle overhangs the edge
by about 1/8". This makes the water drip away from
the fascia (the vertical board at the edge of the
roof) and helps reduce deterioration of the fascia.
Step-6 Picture-6
The nails are driven in just below the tar strip.
The pneumatic nail gun makes quick work out of
nailing shingles, but it has some drawbacks.
The main drawback of pneumatic roof nail gun is
their inconsistency in nail depth. Sometimes the
heads stick up a little and sometimes the heads tear
into the shingle. Another frequent problem is that
nails sometimes enter the roof at an angle, which
makes the head stick up. Protruding nail heads can
tear the shingle above them, and it stands to reason
that they don't hold as well as properly nailed
shingles. In my opinion, hand driving roofing nails
gives a superior level of quality... it just takes
much longer, perhaps two or three times as long.
Step-7 Picture-7
The exposure the amount of the shingle not
covered by the shingle above it of this product was
listed on the package as 5-5/8".
Step-8 Picture-8
The two roofing nail guns you should use have an
adjustable guide on the bottom. This allowed
you to accurately
position the shingle before nailing it.
The same results could have been achieved with an
"L"-shaped piece of wood to use as a positioning
guide. |
Step-9 Picture-9
It's kind of hard to see in this photo, but the
adjustable guide is set against the lower edge of
the previous row's and the next shingle is rested against the nail
gun's contact foot. This creates a uniform exposure
every time.
Step-10 Picture-10
Notice the pattern of shingles as they are applied.
This method of starting at a corner and working
outwards and upwards can be a good way for two
people to apply shingles and not be in each other's
way. One person works horizontally and the other
works up the diagonal.
Shingling Around a Roof Penetration:
Step-11 Picture-11
A plastic-and-rubber flange was used to seal around
penetrations such as this plumbing vent. The lower
edge of the flange lies above the shingles, and the
upper edge is underneath the shingles. The shingles
were cut to fit around the flange's dome.
Step-12 Picture-12
The shingles adjacent to the flange were adhered
with roofing tar, and tar was applied as a sealant
where the cut edges of the shingles meet the dome.
Closing In...
Step-13 Picture-13
At the very top, the shingles were lapped over the
peak of the roof.
Step-14 Picture-14
The shingles were trimmed away from the ridge vent
hole. |
Step-15 Picture-15
The ridge cap shingles are attached with two nails
each.
Step-16 Picture-16
The plastic ridge vent is installed with 3" roofing
nails.
Step-17 Picture-17
The ridge cap shingles are applied over the ridge
vent. There are two narrow bands molded into the
plastic indicating where the nails must go.
Step-18 Picture-18
A dab of tar held down the loose corners of the
first shingle.
Step-19 Picture-19
&20
The finished roof. The architectural-grade shingles
have a pleasing textured appearance created by the
raised layers.6and7
A small roof like this is well within the grasp of a
competent do-it-yourselfer, especially if done one
side at a time. It certainly helps to have a helper
or two, especially for removing the old shingles and
cleaning up the mess around the base of the house.
Good Luck The Roofing Doctor |
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