The Roofing Doctor

How to Replace a shingle Roof Part 1 Of 3
How To Replace A Shingle Roof Part Two
How To Replace A Shingle Roof Part Three
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The Ins and Outs of Roofing
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How to Replace a shingle roof Part 1 Of 3
  Tearing Off The Old Shingles.
With many older homes, you are often faced with the decision as to whether you should repair or replace an older roof. Replacement can be expensive, but consider this. A repair job can end up costing you more than you save. Roofing materials vary widely in price. Clay tiles are the most expensive, with the 3 tab asphalt shingle being the least. Roofing materials also change a lot depending on locale. In southern California you will often see ceramic and clay tile, which is not appropriate to areas such as New England, where winters can raise havoc with this type of material. There, you will see slate roofs which last for decades. In every instance, there comes a time when the roof needs to be either fixed or repaired.
This house was built around 1950s. There were two layers of shingles on the roof. The low-pitched roof measured about 14' x 42' on each plane or just less than 1200 square foot.

This small ranch house had a simple gable roof with no valleys, no hips, no dormers... just two low-pitch planes. The homeowner chose architectural shingles, which cost considerably more than basic three-tab shingles, but which have a longer life and a more interesting, textured appearance.   

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Step-1 Picture-1
This old roof had one leak, which was near the chimney, and many curled and broken shingles. Although the leak could have been repaired, and the roof left alone for a few more years, the homeowner chose to re-shingle it while the time and money was available.

Step-2 Picture-2
This tool is a shingle scraper. It is basically a flat-blade shovel with some big teeth. There is a triangular "heel" welded to the bottom, which acts like a ramp to pivot the scraper against and lift the shingles from the roof.

Step-3 Picture-3
The scraper is simply pushed under the shingles and lifted. This tool does a decent job of prying up the roofing nails along with the shingles.

Step-4 Picture-4 &-5
The red shovel  is a different form of shingle scraper, one that I don't prefer to use. But everyone has there own way of doing things. What ever works to get the roofing job done.
Either scraper is useful to get under the sheet metal edge and pry it up.

It was once common practice in Northern Michigan to attach galvanized steel sheets to the lower surface of residential roofs. Presumably this lets snow and ice just slip right off, reducing the chances of ice dams and roof leaks when the snow begins to melt. The reality is... the snow and ice don't slip off.

Step-6 Picture-6
The flat-blade garden shovel also works modestly well for removing shingle.

Step-7 Picture-7
This garden pitch fork worked quite well for removing just the top layer of shingles, making it much easier to carry them to the edge of the roof for disposal.

 
 
 

Disposal of Shingles:

One of the biggest drawbacks to re-shingling a roof is disposing of the old shingles. Anyone who has never done shingling work before might be surprised at the weight of asphalt shingles. Even the cheapest grades of shingles weigh around 225 pounds per square (in the roofing and siding business, a "square" is 100 square feet). This roof had 2 layers of roofing, and about 12 squares of roof area, so all the old shingles should weigh about 5400 pounds. That's almost 3 tons!The owner of this house had another project nearby that required a huge dumpster, so we simply dropped the waste shingles into two utility trailers parked below, and hauled the debris to the dumpster. Makes the job a lot easier and faster.

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Step-8 Picture-8
It took about an hour to scrape the shingles from one side, with 4 people working. But there were still lots of tiny pieces of shingle stuck to the wood, and many roofing nails that needed to be removed or pounded down.

Step-9 Picture-9
The plumbing vent stack had an old metal flashing around it, and it was sealed with gobs of roofing tar. We removed that and scraped off the tar.

Step-10 Picture-10
This is a typical scrap of shingle that was left behind by the shovels and scrapers.

Step-11 Picture-11
You can use a claw hammer or a flat pry bar to yank out the nails. I went over the roof on my hands and knees and wiped the small chunks of debris downhill with my gloves, and pulled out any nails I found. This process took about 30 minutes per side.

Step-12 Picture-12 & 13
There were many boards with loose nails. This roof was sheathed with 1x10 planks, as was common before the widespread use of plywood for roof and floor sheathing. We hammered down the nails.

Step-14 Picture-14
The ends of the roof boards told us where the rafters lay... not to mention the rusty nails that were popping out.

I drove in some 8-penny nails to secure the roof sheathing boards to the rafters. I used one or two nails per 10 inch wide board, at each rafter.

Now that you have got the tear off done it is time to put on the drip edge and felt. Click here to get too part 2 of three 
How to replace a shingle roof Part Two

 

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